Would you cycle in Bangkok?
Bangkok pulsates with energy and attracts millions of visitors every year. There are historic temples, bustling markets, vibrant street food on every corner, hip bars and glossy shopping malls.
However, the city is notorious for its intense traffic congestion, elevated highways and hectic streets dominated by a sea of motorbikes.
And it is certainly not known as a place to go for a bike ride!
Looking north over typical afternoon traffic approaching the huge Asoke intersection in the Sukhumvit area of Bangkok (Image: Bicycle NSW)
Our Bike Planner Sarah Bickford didn’t think a family bike ride would be a good idea – even though she always loves to explore new places on two wheels. But a guided tour with ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist showed what is possible – as well as the many hidden sides of Bangkok.
The group sets of from a laneway off Soi Sukhumvit 26. ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist has operated for over 30 years, showing thousands of tourists fascinating corners of the city that they would never find on their own (Image: ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist)
Twisting soi in Sukhumvit
The tour began in the upscale Sukhumvit area of the city. We quickly left the congested main roads and rode along narrow laneways, or soi, lined with apartment buildings and some large houses.
It turns out that the neighbourhood streets between the big highways are actually very rideable
The soi laneways twist and turn but most are blocked at one end. Very few offer access for through traffic and there are few cars.
When a vehicle does try to pass a cyclist, the constrained space ensures that the interaction happens at very low speeds. Large areas of the city effectively function as ‘low traffic neighbourhoods’.
The Thais are on to something!
The Khlong Toei neighbourhood
We were soon in the heart of the district of Khlong Toei. This is historically one of the poorest neighbourhoods of Bangkok, and it continues to provide a place of refuge for huge numbers of undocumented migrants from neighbouring countries such as Laos and Myanmar.
Families can afford to rent whole buildings and run businesses from the ground floor. Many are simple restaurants serving delicacies from home. Apparently 80% of resident eat out for every meal! There is a lot of life on the streets – and again almost no traffic. It feels very safe.
The lanes became even narrower and the dwellings more informal. We picked our way through the alleyways, walking the bikes at times, passing racks of fish drying in the afternoon sun and mechanics working on old scooters.
Suddenly we popped out of the shanty town alleys on to a wide, smooth path under a tangle of elevated highways. Perfect for cycling!
The central path was lined with informal public spaces and community facilities. It was a linear town centre that buzzed with life as the traffic rumbled overhead.
Bangkok’s peaceful oasis
Before long we arrived at the banks of the Chao Praya River and clambered into a small longtail boat for the short crossing to Bang Krachao.
Bang Krachao is Bangkok’s rural ‘green lung’, a forested peninsula of land within a huge bend in the Chao Praya. It is a world away from the chaos of central Bangkok.
A dense network of narrow elevated paths links all the villages and farms. It took a bit of practice to not wobble! With no noise, other than bird song, and lush tropical vegetation in every direction, Bang Krachao is a relaxing place to ride.
The main road that loops around the peninsula is very quiet and great for cycling. We were surprised to find advisory bicycle lanes or ‘edge lanes’, a treatment last spotted on Napier Street in Melbourne.
Advisory bicycle lanes help drivers and riders share the road. They are a useful addition to the ‘toolkit’ when there is not enough space for two vehicle lanes plus two bicycle lanes. Vehicles stay in the centre. When faced with oncoming vehicle, drivers need to check for cyclists and pull over into bike lane to pass another vehicle. This Vic Roads video explains how it works (Image: Bicycle NSW)
And when you do ride on busier roads, it feels surprisingly safe
We had to cycle on some major roads to get back to the ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist depot. It was daunting – but this last leg really felt quite comfortable. And exhilarating if you are 11!
There seem to be very few rules (at least, rules that anyone follows…) but the chaos means that drivers are constantly negotiating a myriad of other road users, so they drive at (generally!) low speeds. It’s the shared space ethos playing out on a very large scale.
There is a lot of eye contact and gesturing. People can see one another as most people are on scooters and not inside vehicles.
Edward Birt, Bicycle Mayor of Wollongong and president of Illawarra Bicycle User Group, has made some interesting observations about roads in Indonesia that are pertinent to Thailand.
“There is an organic flow of traffic moving to adapt to the conditions and less obsession with orderly queueing like we have here,” says Edward. “This is a good way to ensure the most efficient movement of people. The smallest vehicles, like grains of sand, can slip through small cracks to keep the flow if there is a break down, road works or other obstruction while larger vehicles also wiggle through as best they can. This is acceptable and functional.”
Sadly, the footpaths are appalling
It was a relief that riding on the roads felt safe enough, as riding on the footpath really isn’t an option. Whenever a length of footpath exists, it is blocked or broken.
Thailand is not an easy place for walking….
It would need another article to explore why walking is difficult in Thailand. It has become an issue for government policy – not least because poor health related to sedentary lifestyles is increasing fast. But it will take generations to rebuild footpaths and improve walkability.
And what’s a smart new footpath other than a place to set up a stall or park a fleet of motorbikes?
Before you head off on a bike adventure overseas….
…be sure to join Bicycle NSW. You will ride easy, covered by our comprehensive insurance and enjoy many other Member-only benefits. You will also support our advocacy for better infrastructure and safer streets
Not quite ready to sign up? Then we would love you to Buy Us a Coffee (or three!)
Bicycle NSW is the only bicycle advocacy group based in NSW with full time staff advocating every day for all riders. But we are funded only by membership fees and donations. Every little bit helps.
